Red Rocks and Road Trips

Red Rocks, Nevada, is some of the best beginner and moderate multi-pitch climbing in the United States. Now combine that with cheap and easy airfare to Las Vegas, a multitude of lodging options from hotels to camping, and you have a true climbing destination.
Interested in checking it out for yourself? I've got the weekend of 10-13 October available, and we can start even sooner than that if you'd like a longer trip.  $360/day for 1:1, or $215/per person/day for two guests. Offer ends 15 September!


Other Road Trips:
Washington Pass, North Cascades. Possibly my favorite local destination, Washington Pass and Mazama has an incredible concentration of easy-to-access moderate alpine rock climbs.  Lodging options cover the whole spectrum. Awesome destination for a weekend from Seattle.

City of Rocks, Idaho.  An insane number of single-pitch routes under 5.10, this destination lives up to its name.  Camping amongst the towers and trees.  Better for a long (4 days) weekend to a week.
Smith Rock, Oregon.  The birthplace of American sport climbing, Smith also has some great trad climbing in the lower gorge and some classic multi-pitch rock routes.  Lodging can vary from hotels just 30 minutes south in Bend to the campground right in the park.  If you can get out of work early on Friday, this makes for a great weekend.

Boulder, Colorado. Special Offer, 23 October - 1 November!!  I'll already be in Boulder, Colorado, for the AMGA Annual Meeting.  If you're in the Denver area and interested in experiencing the iconic Flatirons, contact me!

Rock Climbing!

Spent a great weekend with Alex and Josh, introducing them to the finer points of climbing outside.  They had signed up for an Intro to Rock Climbing from Pro Guiding Service.

On the first pitch of 4th Avenue (2 pitches, 5.6) at the Easy Street Wall, Exit 38.

Learning about technique on Corner Flash (5.7), at the Inner Wall, Index

Over the course of three days, we practiced setting up top-ropes, cleaning anchors safely, and technique.  Lots and lots of technique.  We climbed 4th Avenue, a 2-pitch route (sharing a second pitch with Easy Street) that is a great introduction to multi-pitch climbing, and then followed that up by climbing the Great Northern Slab, a 3-pitch that is arguably the most fun climb of its grade on this side of the Cascades.

All of our scheduled Intro to Rock Climbing trips are done for the summer, but the weather is still splitter and custom dates are easily arranged.  Grab a friend who's interested too, then email me or contact Pro Guiding to book a weekend for yourselves!

Back on the Wagon - A Return to Rock Climbing

A long-time guest - Carlton - came down with a number of ailments last year that put an indefinite stop to his climbing.  I worried for him - he's one of my longest returning guests and we've climbed together in the Sierra Nevada, road-tripped to Smith Rock, and spend countless weekends and evenings cragging around Seattle.  All that time together meant that we've talked as much about our families, our jobs, our communities and our politics as we have talked about climbing.  I like to think he's become a friend.

So for this past year I would pepper Carlton with texts and emails.  Are you ok?  And he would reassure me that everything was looking up but he still wasn't cleared to climb.

I was so stoked when, after reading one of my recent Smash & Grab newsletters, Carlton asked me if we could go out for an easy day.

We've been to Exit 38 and most recently, spent Saturday at Index, where Pro Guiding Service picked up a permit last fall.  I showed Carlton what might be the best multi-pitch 5.6 on the west side, the Great Northern Slab.

Welcome back, C.  You've been missed:

If only pitch 2 of the Great Northern Slab went on and on and on...

Rock Climbing at the Exit!

Jim, Amelia, Giaco and Mal came rock climbing with me for three days this week for an Intro to Rock Climbing with Pro Guiding Service.  These guys have some experience already, so our itinerary was more "Intermediate" then "Intro", and tailored more to what they wanted to be able to do afterwards:  lead sport climbs and set up top ropes.

Mal is stoked on his gear anchor.

Mock leading teaches lead belaying and proper rope management.

Giaco demonstrates proper teenager nutrition:  by eating a whole roasted chicken for lunch.

Graduate exercise on the third day:  setting up a top rope on this 5.8.

Fixed Anchors Coming Out of the Closet in Red Rocks

Red Rock Natural Conservancy Area - aka Red Rocks - is finally - FINALLY - considering what policy to replace its current prohibition against bolts with.  This prohibition has led to new routes being established by such methods as moon-light-first ascents; mid-winter first ascents; and reportedly even employed the use of spotters and radios to warn a team of an approaching BLM warden.  Since getting the job done quickly without being caught is the name of the game, power drills are used extensively, despite the areas wilderness designation, which makes me really cringe the hardest.  Local guidebook authors are forced to either a) pretend the route doesn't exist, b) lie and say the route was established the week before the bolting ban took effect, or c) state "Unknown" for the first ascent information, despite the local climbing community definitely knowing.

So now we have an opportunity to change all of that.  The BLM is finally reviewing this policy, and you have until 18 November to make your voice heard.  I really encourage you to send your thoughts to rrc_fixedanchors@blm.gov.  Here's what I submitted, with some help from the Access Fund to get my stuff straight:

Regarding the use of fixed anchors in the Red Rocks Wilderness:
Technical rock climbing has a long history in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservancy Area, aka Red Rocks.  While ideally no sign of a climber's passage is preferred, climbing and descending safely requires some use of fixed anchors and what the appropriate level of use should be determined by local land managers and the user community.  Climbers themselves - with some direction through formal policy, local history, and local ethics - are the best resource to determine when, where, and how to use fixed anchors.  Fixed anchors are permitted under the Wilderness Act and if properly applied and managed can actually protect and enhance wilderness resources and characteristics.  Fixed anchors can be used as a tool to minimize climbing impacts on fragile soil, vegetation, and wildlife.  They can also minimize the visual impact to other users, by eliminating the cord and sling material necessarily abandoned in situ for "removable" anchors, only to be added to annually as the original material ages into untrustworthy disuse.  Power drills violate the Wilderness Act and "sport routes" - climbing routes employing a bolt approximately every 2 meters for protection - are unsightly:  simply requiring that all fixed anchors be placed utilizing a labor-intensive hand drill will naturally limit the use of fixed anchors.
Red Rocks famously offers a full spectrum of climbing experiences, from bouldering and short (30m) routes near the road to incredibly long mult-pitch wilderness adventures and epics.  This reputation has made Red Rocks and international climbing destination, attracting climbers from around the world.  The current prohibition against fixed-anchors, which includes replacing aging fixed anchors with new hardware that will last for 20+ years, detracts from that experience and increases the objective hazards for visiting climbers.  Zion and Rocky Mountain National Parks are great examples of appropriately managed fixed anchors, and could be used as a model for the Red Rocks wilderness areas.  Zion and RMNP's policies are simple to follow, require a low level of administrative oversight, and are consistent with the policies agreed upon by the Fixed Anchor in Wilderness Negotiated Rulemaking Advisory Committee.
As I said above, the current prohibition is creating a negative impact.  Red Rocks needs a wilderness fixed anchor policy that does the following: 

1. Requires hand drilling for fixed anchor placements; 

2. Allows for the replacement of previous fixed anchors on a 1:1 standard without prior approval;

3. Allows placement of new fixed anchors without prior approval on sections within a route that is otherwise un-protectable with removable protection or anchors; for safety in descending; and emergencies; and

4. Allows for a permit or approval system to be developed if the BLM determines through research and monitoring that it is necessary to protect wilderness values.

Thank you for your time and consideration in this matter.
Sincerely,
Chris Simmons

The Bastille and Boulder

My guiding season seems to have ground to a halt this October, which is fine, because my work for Backcountry Access kicked in with a vengeance, starting with a week at the office in Boulder, CO, meeting with the warehouse and office staff, getting to see the awesome town of Boulder (it lived up to its hype, I'm afraid).  The weather canceled plans to climb one of the Flatirons (next time), but I did get in one climb with Bruno, who showed me the classic Bastille Crack in Eldorado:

I'm going to have to lead the first three pitches next time.

Statistics:  Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.  The Bastille Crack (II 5.7, 6 pitches).  4 October 2012 with Bruno.

The AAC Craggin' Classic at Smith Rock, Oregon

"What's a 'Cragging Classic'?"  Was probably the most common question I was asked last week when I told friends and acquaintances what I was doing for the weekend.

The American Alpine Club is sponsoring Craggin' Classics all across the country.  At destinations that are both nationally and locally significant, the event is a celebration of the local climbing community, and the crags that inspire them.

This weekend's event was organized by the Oregon Section of the American Alpine Club, and sponsored by Outdoor Research, CAMP, Boreal, and Evolv.  It included breakfast burritos on Saturday, pancakes on Sunday, and bacon cheeseburgers at the Terrebonne Depot on Saturday night.  Actually, it featured the Terrebonne Depot every night - that place is fantastic, puts out an awesome spread, and the only faster way to wrap sore hands around a cold beer is to have a cooler waiting in the car.  But then you wish for a chilled pint glass.

But I digress.  I'll let the photos tell the story.  If you spend 15 hours driving to get to and from someplace, you're bound to see something interesting.  Like a classic Porsche Carrera on fire and stopping traffic.

Another great reason to travel.  Great coffee, like that from Thump
in Bend, Oregon.  That's a mean trad cap, know what I'm saying?

   On Friday morning I woke up early and went for my only run of the trip, a meandering figure-eight-ish loop over Misery Ridge and a couple of times through Asterix Pass.

1.25 miles: Passing underneath the Picnic Wall.

2.5 miles: Crossing Misery Ridge, underneath
a falcon hunting for breakfast.

Looking down at the Smith Rock group around mile 3.  Mile 4-6
were spent running around this thing.

The third class of Asterix Pass slowed this run
waaaaaay down.

The view from mile 5.

As I finished the run, the Crooked Creek fire continued to grow.
The smoke eventually settled in the area, and put a full stop to
my plans for a second run on Wednesday.

Oh yeah, the event.  The Terrebonne Depot hosted the organizers and sponsor reps on Friday night for sign-ups.  We were expecting a somewhat small and tame group of 60.

By breakfast in the morning that 60 had grown to over 80.

In addition to the clinics on movement skills, trad gear, and
aid climbing, there was a service project.  We spent 8.5 hours
over two days building trail and staircases near the Shipwreck.

Saturday night the sponsors put up tables and talked about how
cool our stuff is.  And it is cool, let me tell you.

There were 130 tickets issued for dinner at the Terrebonne Depot.
For the following show of Reel Rock 7, the Depot owners
estimated the crowd at 150.

I chose to sleep in my car after the after-party at Greg's.  It was that epic.

Sunday featured a climbing competition with points given for pitches climbed on lead.  Bonus points were awarded for climbing trad, multi-pitch, locations, and costumes.  A few of us stayed around to go climbing on Monday and Tuesday.

Eddie climbing pitch 4 - the money pitch - of
Wherever I May Roam, quit possibly the best
5.9 ever.

Eddie and Linda crossing the river to the Shakespeare
Wall, Lower Gorge. 

Whisky, beer, and pizza: Glenn enjoying the fruit of his labor.

My last view of Smith Rock, filled with smoke from the Crooked
Creek fire.

Statistics:  Outdoor Research, American Alpine Club's Craggin' Classic at Smith Rock State Park, Oregon.  14 September: Trail Run, 8 miles and 2000' elevation, 1:45.  15 and 16 September: trail building.  17 September: Smith Rock Group, West Face, Wherever I May Roam (II 5.9, 5 pitches), with Eddie E.  18 September:  Shakespeare Wall, Sauron (5.9), Peck (5.10a), Othello (5.9), and two others I can't recall, with Eddie E., Linda P., Pete K., Phil H., and Aaron T. Posse!

Rock, This is Climber. Climber, Meet Rock.

Todd and Phil met me at the Pro Ski Shop in North Bend on Friday for our Intro to Rock course.  The goal of the three days is to get novice climbers comfortable following single pitch routes, cleaning the anchors and being lowered, and being able to set up top-ropes at established anchors for their own climbing.  These two had some limited experience climbing indoors at gyms - Todd had also spent one day outside working on movement skills - so they were the perfect students.

On Day 1 we hiked to We Did Rock at Exit 38 and focused on movement skills and safely cleaning anchors to be lowered.

On Day 2 we went to the Gritscone at Exit 38 and worked on top-rope anchor skills - and got in a few good climbs along the way.  The 5.10a there is fantastic!

On Day 3 we upped the ante by heading over to the Repo towers at Exit 32, where exposed top-rope anchors require protecting the scrambles and rappelling.  The heat was wilting, so we kept it short and simple and then hiked around to a couple of the other crags.  We also discovered George's Bakery in North Bend - I'm a little shocked and embarrassed I haven't walked into this place before - its right across the street from the shop!  Another bakery to add to my list!

Those donuts are about 8" across.  No kidding.

Statistics:  Pro Guiding Service - Intro to Rock.  Exit 38 - We Did Rock, The Gritscone; Exit 32 - Repo I and II Towers.  3-5 August with Todd and Phil.

Bold Earth

No rest for the wicked - I came home from Mt Baker, unpacked, repacked, and headed right back out on Wednesday.
Bold Earth is a teenage adventure camp program, headquartered in Golden, Colorado, and comes rock climbing with Pro Guiding Service twice or three times a summer.  Dave Jordan and I got to spend two high-energy days with 10 folks who were simply psyched to be outside and getting to climb!

Statistics:  Pro Guiding Service - Bold Earth Rock Climbing.  Exit 38, We Did Rock; Exit 32, British Isles.  1-2 August with Bold Earth.

Rock Climbing in Leavenworth

What a week!  Smash & Grab was launched and has had a fantastic response.  Dan and Allen joined me for a multi-pitch day in Leavenworth, where I guide occasionally with the Northwest Mountain School.  We met an hour earlier than typical to beat the forecasted 90+ degree heat and immediately cranked out two three-pitch routes on February Buttress before taking a leisurely late lunch in town, then heading over to the Eight Mile Buttress area to find the shade under the Stone's Throw crag, where we worked on lead climbing skills.  It was a great full day.

Dan (in blue) and Allen (white) climbing the unforgettable last pitch of Ground Hog Day.

Rappelling off of Aquarius.

Mock lead practice on Audrey.

Statistics:  Northwest Mountain School, Leavenworth and Icicle Canyon.  Ground Hog Day (Ain't Misbehaving variation), II 5.7, 310'/3 pitches.  Aquarius, II 5.7, 300' / 3 pitches.  Audrey 2, 5.8, at the Stone's Throw Wall.  Saturday, 28 July, with Dan H.  and Allen M.

Special Thanks to the Northwest Mountain School for allowing me to come over and work with them!

Summer Rock!

I've been getting out these past few days - all cragging at Little Mt Si (aka Exit 32) or the crags around Exit 38.  Both of these zones are off of I-90 in the Snoqualmie Valley, just 40 minutes from my house in Seattle.

You should be here!

The Great Northern Slab

Sometimes a climb is just freaking fun, do you know what I mean?  Its not about climbing hard, or fast, or being more "out there", or whatever epic tale you've had after other climbs.  Its just about getting outside, moving over the stone, seeing some new terrain, and feeling your limbs flow up a climb.

I've only climbed at Index on two other occasions before Wednesday, so PG and I got a late morning start and headed on over to Index, which is on my list of Towns-I'd-Love-To-Live-In-If-I-Could-Only-Find-A-Job-In-Town.

The Great Northern Slab is one of those climbs.  Its not particularly hard, the approach is a five-minute flip-flop walk from the car, and you're likely to be sharing it with other parties.  But the climbing is fun, especially either variation of the second pitch.

Pitch 2 features these two parallel - but seperate cracks.
The left-hand variation is fingers, the right-hand is hands/feet.
Both are stellar, and put the first word in the Great Northern Slab.

Taking off on Pitch 3 - demonstrating how the third word in the Great Northern Slab was determined.

Statistics:  The Great Northern Slab (II 5.7, 3 pitches, 250'), Index.  11 July with PG.


Photos: Taken by PG and used with encouragement.

Motivation

Its hard to stay motivated.  Especially when you're hurt.  I shattered my lower left leg in 2002, and picked up my first climbing gym membership at Vertical World when I got out of the hospital.  Not because I could climb - I could barely stand up - but because watching everyone else climb while I was lifting weights reminded me of what I could be doing instead, and would be doing as soon as I could get this cast off.  But you don't need a gym - a pull-up bar may be enough.  Or a stairwell.

Inspiration by Grit

Just had this video in my inbox today.  Tomorrow I'm climbing outdoors for the first time this year - thankfully on nothing this hard.

Grit Ground Up from Michele Caminati on Vimeo.

Slowing Down to Speed Up

Climbing in October can be hit-or-miss, and people tend to be a bit gun shy.  Luckily Carlton lives locally, and was willing to be extremely flexible in booking, so we simply set up a system where he called on Monday, we looked at the weather forecast, picked a day, and went for it.  Because of that, I think we went climbing almost every week.  For Carlton, it was more than getting back on the bike.  He climbed his first 5.10, lead his first 5.6 sport route, and is talking about ice and mixed climbing this winter.

Carlton figures out the not-straight-forward 5.8 at Exit 38.

Neo came along, and proved to be a great crag dog.

Its certainly fall at Snoqualmie Pass.  These hills were dusted with snow today.

Research and Development

Quite possibly one of my favorite routes in Icicle Canyon is R & D.  Start with Cocaine Connection and you've added a pitch to the length and a grade to the difficulty.  Any closer to the road and you can belay from the bumper.

This time of the year the weather is chancy, so a few people are checking in with me regularly to look at the forecast and get out if its good.  Carlton is one of those, and for the last weekend of September we went to Leavenworth, spent two days enjoying the weather, and got in a fair bit of climbing.

On Saturday we went to Playground Point - Carlton hasn't climbed in a few years due to foot surgery, and this was a great way to get re-acquainted with the skills and techniques. 

On Sunday climbed Cocaine Connection to R&D.  Typically I traverse over to R&D after the first pitch, but this time we climbed both pitches of CC to see where it led.  Kind of scruffy, and not really worth the detour.  You can see Carlton belaying from the top of Pitch 1.

Carlton topping out of Pitch 5, the crux pitch for R&D's normal line (5.6).  The CC variation bumps the grade up to 5.7.

Back in the saddle - time for a beer!

Statistics:  Northwest Mountain School, 24-25 September.  Icicle Canyon, Playground Point - 9 pitches up to 5.9.  Icicle Dome, Cocaine Connection - R&D (6 pitches, 5.7).  X-Y Crack.