tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43764994349948126082024-02-20T02:15:30.474-08:00Climb | Ski | Sleep | RepeatChris Simmons | IFMGA/AMGA Mountain GuideChris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comBlogger493125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-70995168217414566712014-06-19T07:07:00.001-07:002014-06-19T07:13:25.968-07:00Moving Day!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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ChrisSimmonsGuiding.com is moving! The new 3.0 website will be launched (hopefully) by Monday. Thanks for your patience and understanding.<br />
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<i>photo | motherearthnews.com</i>Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-73698707345145785592014-06-13T18:18:00.003-07:002014-06-13T18:18:37.884-07:00Construction Coming!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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OK, I know I said it first in January, but now its really official. Sometime in the next week if you type in "ChrisSimmonsGuiding.com" you're not going to end up here. You'll end up at the new site, which will also be very under construction for at least another week (or two). Hopefully by mid-July we'll have everything up and running. Thanks for your patience! Chris<br />
<br />Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-84207085619388406412014-05-26T22:47:00.000-07:002014-05-26T22:47:46.225-07:00When a lot is too much<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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To Suunto, Garmin, Nike, and all you other sport watch companies: I think you're missing an easy mark here.<br />
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You're all offering some incredible pieces of modern engineering. Watches, smaller than my great-grandfather's pocket watch, capable of doing so much more than display the time - there's alarms and heart rate monitors and altimeters and ascent rates and log books and gps tracking...<br />
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But what if I want something simple?<br />
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I want a watch that:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Is minimalist in size and display;</li>
<li>Tells the time;</li>
<li>Tracks my routes using GPS;</li>
<li>Tracks for longer than 8 hours, preferably to 24;</li>
<li>Let's me share that data with others.</li>
</ul>
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Battery life is the crux of GPS sport watches - 1 second GPS fixes is the norm - but it doesn't have to be. It would be an easy addition to allow the user to change settings from 1s, to 15, 30 or even 60 seconds - at least that seems easy to me. Switching to a 60s GPS fix would allow any of the watches on the market to have an extended battery life of 20 hours, if the 1s/60s battery ratio for the Suunto GPS Track Pod is any indicator (the only device that has this feature, and none other).</div>
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Such a simple watch would certainly be cheaper - less than the $300 Suunto Core altimeter watch I wear while guiding, or the $400 Suunto Ambit 2 HR that my wife runs with.</div>
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The closest match I've found so far is the Soleus GPS Mini or Fit watches, both for $99, but with GPS track limiting the battery to 8 hours.</div>
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Oh well - I'm still looking.</div>
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<i>photo: etsy.com</i>Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-13305962662821109942014-04-23T09:00:00.000-07:002014-04-23T09:00:00.757-07:00Packing Lists: Alpine Style Car Camping<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Its springtime, and with spring comes the road trips - places near and far, for a day, a night, or a week. The longer I'm gone the more elaborate my car camping gets - the shorter the simpler, especially for overnights, when I've been known simply to throw in a sleeping bag and called it good.<br />
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Somewhere along the way in our culture/community/sport/lifestyle/whatever, car camping became complicated. REI is probably complicit in this - just take a walk through and look at all the modern conveniences of the modern world re-built for the camping life.<br />
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Yes, car camping can be luxurious. But I live in a city, without off street parking, so packing means filling up a collection of plastic bins and duffels. If I'm lucky I found a parking spot on the block in front of my house and I can simply move the bins/duffels to the door, and then out the door to the car. If I'm unlucky the car is parked all the way around the block on the other side. And then I get to repeat the process when I come home, usually to the excited barking of two 50 lbs dogs who want me to wrestle while simultaneously unpacking.<br />
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Its a pain in the arse. So instead I go without - I sit on a foam pad or stand instead of a chair. I get cold deli food from my local grocery instead of cooking. My stove is primarily to boil water for hit drinks.<br />
So here, then, is my alpine style car camping list. I use it for a night out or a weekend.<br />
<br />
Kitchen:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Car coffee mug</li>
<li>Spoon</li>
<li>Fozzil Bowl</li>
<li>MSR Reactor Stove with a handful of half-used canisters</li>
<li>Via instant coffee or French Press with ground coffee. This really depends on the trip - if its a single overnight and alpine start, I'll go with the Starbucks. If its a longer, or more leisurely, trip then I'll use the real stuff.</li>
<li>Tea/Apple Cider for dinner</li>
<li>Pastries for breakfast</li>
<li>Fruits and bars for lunch</li>
<li>Deli sandwiches for dinner</li>
<li>Chips and salsa for appetizers</li>
<li>Adult beverage(s) of choice - I prefer something stronger than beer because it doesn't need to be refrigerated.</li>
</ul>
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Sleeping:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Tarp or tent. I actually prefer sleeping under a tarp - but if the fly's are bad a tent is a must.</li>
<li>Air mattress <b>and</b> a foam pad. My concession to comfort - and the foam pad doubles as a seat. Be warned: <i>an air mattress and dogs do not mix well together, no matter how well behaved or intentioned the dogs are. </i><b>A crash pad can be substituted if its coming along already</b>.</li>
<li>Sleeping bag - duh! I prefer a 20 degree synthetic that I got years ago. I don't have to worry about holes, or stains, or spilled coffee.</li>
</ul>
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So my Kitchen stuff (minus the coffee mug that already lives in my car), gets thrown in a bin. My tent, <u>unstuffed</u> sleeping bag (its going in a duffel, why bother?), pads and extra clothes get thrown in a duffel. My climbing or ski gear get thrown in a separate pack, and that's it. A weekend in three containers, I can be packed up in less than 30 minutes and a quick trip to the grocery.</div>
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One day, I'll reclaim my road trip mini-van and eliminate a lot of the packing list. Who wouldn't like a car pre-packed with the kitchen and bedroom already set up? Meanwhile, I know it can be fun to bring along the expedition dome tent, camp chairs, the big coleman stove, and an entire cooler of food.</div>
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But more often, I like this method instead: grab your s#!^ and get going.</div>
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<i>photo from the Model T Ford Forum, www.mtfca.com</i></div>
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Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-48934107816455070072014-01-28T14:00:00.001-08:002014-01-28T14:00:30.839-08:00Where the Hell Have I Been?OK, confession time: I'm tired of blogging.<br />
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I mean, I still write. But not here - not for this. And while I want to post up inspirational trip reports and get folks excited to come out into the mountains with me, I'm tired of feeling constantly obligated to put out "content", and I don't want to just put up filler to say "hey, look!"<br />
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So I'm working with an incredible web design consultant, and long-time friend, to launch the 3.0 website. If you're relatively new, this website started as a blog about 6 years ago, called Climb.Ski.Sleep.Repeat. (v 1.0). Then I got professional-y and renamed it Chris Simmons Guiding (v 2.0), but I've kept the original title as a tag line, and it will be showing up on the new site too.<br />
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Facebook, like it or not, has become the go-to forum for quick updates and easy following - something I worked to do through my blog but lacked the convenience of easy posting and easy networking.<br />
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What I am excited about is a host of new trips I'll be offering in the next 18 months: Ski traverses in Europe, California, Canada and here at home; incredible trips to Mexico, Chile, Norway, Sweden, China and Japan. My personal goal is to travel abroad 4-6 times a year, on trips of 2-3 weeks long - I'd by stoked to have you join me.<br />
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So stand by. Wait. A little more patience. 3.0 is coming, and I'll be "journaling" instead of "blogging" - mostly about the great trips, the occasional notable great-for-a-different-reason-trip, and some odds and ends I've been thinking about (packing lists? product design work?). But more important - to me at least - it will showcase what I'm most passionate about: to Climb.Ski.Sleep.Repeat. with the occasional trail run and gym session thrown in.<br />
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See you soon.<br />
ChrisChris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-33196766055635667622013-09-08T14:09:00.001-07:002013-09-08T14:20:09.207-07:00Red Rocks and Road Trips<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ErlqMl_q3S4/SstHUc6FmnI/AAAAAAAAH0A/yOvXScxfcos/s1600/DSC01781.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ErlqMl_q3S4/SstHUc6FmnI/AAAAAAAAH0A/yOvXScxfcos/s320/DSC01781.JPG" width="320" /></a>
<b>Red Rocks, Nevada</b>, is some of the best beginner and moderate multi-pitch climbing in the United States. Now combine that with cheap and easy airfare to Las Vegas, a multitude of lodging options from hotels to camping, and you have a true climbing destination.<br />
Interested in checking it out for yourself? I've got the weekend of <b>10-13 October</b> available, and we can start even sooner than that if you'd like a longer trip. $360/day for 1:1, or $215/per person/day for two guests. Offer ends 15 September!<br />
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<br />
Other Road Trips:<br />
<i>Washington Pass, North Cascades</i>. Possibly my favorite local destination, Washington Pass and Mazama has an incredible concentration of easy-to-access moderate alpine rock climbs. Lodging options cover the whole spectrum. Awesome destination for a weekend from Seattle.<br />
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<i>City of Rocks, Idaho</i><span style="font-weight: normal;">. An insane number of single-pitch routes under 5.10, this destination lives up to its name. Camping amongst the towers and trees. Better for a long (4 days) weekend to a week.<br /></span><i>Smith Rock, Oregon</i><span style="font-weight: normal;">. The birthplace of American sport climbing, Smith also has some great trad climbing in the lower gorge and some classic multi-pitch rock routes. Lodging can vary from hotels just 30 minutes south in Bend to the campground right in the park. If you can get out of work early on Friday, this makes for a great weekend.<br /><br /><i>Boulder, Colorado. </i>Special Offer, 23 October - 1 November!!</span><span style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"> I'll already be in Boulder, Colorado, for the AMGA Annual Meeting. If you're in the Denver area and interested in experiencing the iconic Flatirons, contact me!</span>
Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-57391242375978964372013-08-31T19:55:00.000-07:002013-08-31T19:55:07.717-07:001st Annual Mt Si Run, 6 SeptemberThere are still spaces open for <a href="http://www.proguiding.com/the-mount-si-run-6/the-mount-si-run.html">Pro Guiding Service's 1st Annual Mt Si Run</a>. This deceiving trail travels only 4 miles but gains over 3000 feet of elevation, making the climb just shallow enough to run but steep enough that you will never forget it. Come join us on Friday, 6 September.<br />
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More information here: <a href="http://www.proguiding.com/the-mount-si-run-6/the-mount-si-run.html">LINK</a><br />
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<br />Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-13313925911865720192013-08-29T08:58:00.000-07:002013-08-29T08:58:08.292-07:005Point Film On the Road with the AAC in Bellingham!Loading the car up right now, to drive up to Bellingham for an evening of incredible outdoor films. <b>I'm MC'ing the 5 Point Film Fest in Bellingham tonight!!</b> Come cheer me on - or heckle, whatever your preference! Come join us!<br />
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<br />Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-8687885675317115182013-08-26T18:23:00.001-07:002013-08-26T18:25:51.269-07:00Smash & Grab #11I'll be honest - it's a bit of a dice game out there right now. Last night I canceled a personal two-day trip into Boston Basin (we were supposed to hike in today). Here's what the weather looks like at the likely suspects this week:<br />
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Washington Pass:<br />
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Leavenworth:<br />
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Snoqualmie Pass:<br />
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The pattern is similar all over the Cascades. Thunderstorms on the east side, moderate chances of rain on the west side.<br />
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So what can you do? Keep expectations and commitment factor low - like Meredith is doing with me tomorrow (Tuesday). We're heading up to Chair Peak in the morning, playing the weather "by ear". If its as good in the morning as it was this morning, we'll go for the <b>West Ridge of Chair Peak</b>. If it looks like we need to move faster, we'll try <b>Chair's NE Buttress</b>, and since we're local, if it completely craps out we'll try to reschedule some time in the next month.<br />
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Or keep it limited to cragging - I just spent Saturday (another 30%-chance-of-rain-day) climbing with Carlton at Exit 38. While it threatened a few times, we got in 10 pitches without being hit by a drop!<br />
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And shoot, if we make plans and we do get rained out, we still got all of September to get 'er done!<br />
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That's the reality here - we love the deep green in the summer and the deep white in the winter, but sometimes we have to pay the piper and this week may be it. It does look like this system is moving out at the end of the week, so I'm expecting the weekend to be much more favorable. Still, if anyone want's my opinion I'd want to go climb day trip objectives like <b>Guye Peak's Improbable Traverse</b>, the <b>East Face of the Tooth</b>, and the <b>West Ridge of Chair Peak</b>.<br />
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Other stuff happening this week - the <b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/5PointFilmFestival">5 Point Film Festival</a></b> is coming to <b>Bellingham </b>on <b>Thursday, 29 August</b>! From Carbondale, Colorado, the 5 Point Film Fest is a celebration of being outside - that awesome intersection of mountain and surf culture that shares so much in common. A love for the human powered experience of the untouched world.<br />
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<i><b>What makes it really special is that I'll be there - as the MC!! </b></i> That's right! I'm so freaking psyched! Come cheer me on - or heckle, whatever your fancy! All sorts of things start around 5pm at the Bellingham Depot (where the weekly farmers' market is held, right across the street from the Boundary Bay Pub! Movies start up around dark-o'clock (8-ish). One of the cooler things you could win - food and accomodations in Carbondale, CO in April for the 2014 5 Point Film Festival. I've never been to Carbondale, but have always heard about what a great mountain town it is - now I've got an excuse to load up the Missus and the dogs and see for myself!<br />
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So, re-cap: Stay flexible, keep the objectives low on the commitment grade but high on the adventure grade, and take an evening to visit Bellingham for good food, drinks, and the 5 Point Film Fest on Thursday night.<br />
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Hope to see you soon in the mountains!<br />
Chris<br />
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P.S. Check out the top-right corner! Over there, in the side bar. My Instagram account seems pretty cool. At least to me, right now. Want to keep up? Click on the button, bump over to my new account, and Follow!Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-15530488253873849432013-08-19T14:41:00.000-07:002013-08-19T14:41:01.707-07:00Help! I've been Instagrammed!!Can you use Instagram as a verb?<br />
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In an effort to more efficiently get my photos from my phone (which is what I take my photos with these days) to <a href="http://www.facebook.com/climb.ski.sleep.repeat">my Facebook Page</a> (where most of you look at my photos), I opened an <a href="http://www.instagram.com/chrissimmonsguiding">Instagram account</a>. Doing this took about 30 seconds of signing up and about 3 months of whinging, hemming and hawing about if I <i>wanted</i> to sign up.<br />
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I tried Twitter, but I never really got into twitting. Twittering? Tweeting. Twhatever. When was something worth twitting about? But not f-b'ing? Besides, I don't want to tell about the fun I'm having - I want to show. And tell. Just like first grade.<br />
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My hope is, I'll be able to have a live Instagram feed on the website, as well as have my Instagrammed photos loaded immediately onto my Facebook page. Or soon thereafter, since I don't have a cell signal in most places I take photos.<br />
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Oh! And if you like - I know I'm assuming a lot, but you have read this far - please follow me on Instagram: <a href="http://instagram.com/chrissimmonsguiding">chrissimmonsguiding</a>.<br />
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Cheers<br />
Chris<br />
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Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-5046751943451999242013-08-13T14:22:00.000-07:002013-08-19T14:23:23.469-07:00The Eldorado Icefield - An Intro to Mountaineering<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Phil and Kellen signed up for <a href="http://www.proguiding.com/">Pro Guiding Service</a>'s Intro to Mountaineering in the North Cascades. I know I'm biased, but I think this is the best-value trip of its kind offered. This year, I started exploring a zone I'm calling the Eldorado Icefield, where the Eldorado, Inspiration, Klawatti, and McAllister Glaciers all meet to form one of the largest glacial areas <u>not</u> located on one of the Cascade volcanoes. I think it offers it all - thought-provoking glacial travel and rock routes from 3rd to 5th Class, all wrapped up in a 5-day itinerary. Plus, once you get past Eldorado Peak you can usually count the number of other climbers on one hand.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0-GsenJoC4/UhJglDJdWeI/AAAAAAAATd4/j798qLt7fE8/s1600/IMG_0850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0-GsenJoC4/UhJglDJdWeI/AAAAAAAATd4/j798qLt7fE8/s640/IMG_0850.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking up to the Eldorado Glacier is <u>steep</u>, and typically take most of the day.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HWYVyaK0XBI/UhJgo1Yy0EI/AAAAAAAATeA/-SC8g9F-fnk/s1600/IMG_0854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HWYVyaK0XBI/UhJgo1Yy0EI/AAAAAAAATeA/-SC8g9F-fnk/s640/IMG_0854.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This time I opted for a steep-snow variation to the summit of Eldorado Peak.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wTou-ECAUds/UhJgq_oIqUI/AAAAAAAATeI/JObj3HFDVeg/s1600/IMG_0856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wTou-ECAUds/UhJgq_oIqUI/AAAAAAAATeI/JObj3HFDVeg/s640/IMG_0856.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The West Ridge of Eldorado Peak is a good introduction to alpinism, with low technical difficulties,<br />a lot of physical difficulties, and fantastic views - like this sunset from camp.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fgmj_Imu8PE/UhJgwxusfWI/AAAAAAAATeY/U91U1GblIas/s1600/IMG_0860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fgmj_Imu8PE/UhJgwxusfWI/AAAAAAAATeY/U91U1GblIas/s640/IMG_0860.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traversing across the Inspiration Glacier. That's Glacier Peak on the left horizon, and Eldorado Peak on the right. We stopped just a few minutes later to spend 1/2 a day practicing crevasse rescue.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Downclimbing the Klawatti Notch on our way to Austera Peak.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the summit of Austera, with the 3rd/4th class ridge we had to<br />traverse in view over his right shoulder. That's also Forbidden Peak in<br />the background - check out the weather photos coming up.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8M_w_mHKOgI/UhJg-PeyPjI/AAAAAAAATfQ/DLWfq1K90t8/s1600/IMG_0868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8M_w_mHKOgI/UhJg-PeyPjI/AAAAAAAATfQ/DLWfq1K90t8/s640/IMG_0868.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cool surprise was finding a 47 year-old register from a traverse team,<br />presumably on skis. We found this on the gendarme next to the true summit.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o40qSrXXtL0/UhJhAmHkBWI/AAAAAAAATfY/T8T9vZbmCMI/s1600/IMG_0869.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o40qSrXXtL0/UhJhAmHkBWI/AAAAAAAATfY/T8T9vZbmCMI/s640/IMG_0869.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were for sheets of paper and a pencil. But it was late in the day, so we<br />didn't have time to reverse the last 70' of climbing to place the register on the<br />summit.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cO_54nyLb4A/UhJhD3_997I/AAAAAAAATfg/zLiAzyeCKjA/s1600/IMG_0872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cO_54nyLb4A/UhJhD3_997I/AAAAAAAATfg/zLiAzyeCKjA/s640/IMG_0872.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Funny how it looks different traveling in the opposite direction, eh? Climbing<br />back up the Klawatti Notch on our way to camp.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ijLE1NmnpxI/UhJhH7Ea1iI/AAAAAAAATfw/Kk81icG0Vi0/s1600/IMG_0876.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ijLE1NmnpxI/UhJhH7Ea1iI/AAAAAAAATfw/Kk81icG0Vi0/s640/IMG_0876.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset. Our camp is just off-frame left and about 10 minutes awa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ohPzBozFNyk/UhJhLzcbHtI/AAAAAAAATgA/wscRT8X44yQ/s1600/IMG_0883.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="144" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ohPzBozFNyk/UhJhLzcbHtI/AAAAAAAATgA/wscRT8X44yQ/s640/IMG_0883.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our last day out - we tried to get on the North, and then the Southeast, Ridges of Klawatti Peak. But big overhanging moats between the Klawatti Glacier and the rock had us stumped. We settled for four pitches on a lower ridge tower and a fun glacial circumnavigation.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eyAISki6Nwg/UhJhOKWrdmI/AAAAAAAATgI/FXh7Ik175Pg/s1600/IMG_0885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eyAISki6Nwg/UhJhOKWrdmI/AAAAAAAATgI/FXh7Ik175Pg/s640/IMG_0885.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That evening we watched the weather roll in.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iEkytZie5OA/UhJhXXsBHhI/AAAAAAAATgg/Of6GPXOGInc/s1600/IMG_0888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iEkytZie5OA/UhJhXXsBHhI/AAAAAAAATgg/Of6GPXOGInc/s640/IMG_0888.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dark wall was heading for us, and the thunderstorm hit right at sunset.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qpz67Szxdt0/UhJhaClAG9I/AAAAAAAATgo/fFYD_5jTdqE/s1600/IMG_0889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qpz67Szxdt0/UhJhaClAG9I/AAAAAAAATgo/fFYD_5jTdqE/s640/IMG_0889.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crystal clear skies in the morning as we left. That's Klawatti Peak in the background.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0pFnI9PiTIw/UhJhduJkvII/AAAAAAAATgw/1Lu8e8xLv-8/s1600/IMG_0891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0pFnI9PiTIw/UhJhduJkvII/AAAAAAAATgw/1Lu8e8xLv-8/s640/IMG_0891.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We descended into a marine layer just as we exited the glacier, and then 45 minutes from the car:</td></tr>
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Trips like this are available almost anytime. Want to spend less time on snow? Then we'll head over to Boston Basin. Want to increase the rock climbing difficulty - we'll climb Triad Peak, the Dorado Needle, Early Morning Spire, or the West Arete on Eldorado instead. Our Cascade summers typically last until the end of September, so grab a few friends and <a href="mailto:chris@chrissimmonsguiding.com">email me</a> or c<a href="mailto:info@proguiding.com">ontact Pro Guiding Service</a> to book a trip.Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comEldorado Peak, North Cascades National Park, Washington, USA48.5376255 -121.134283126.427720499999996 -162.6186581 70.6475305 -79.6499081tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-14469534760233953262013-08-07T13:52:00.000-07:002013-08-19T13:52:58.819-07:00Mt Baker up the Easton Glacier<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Spent an awesome three-day weekend with Ron and his daughters Maia, Milan, and Capri climbing Mt Baker. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking up through wildflowers and heather.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking into the crater on our summit day.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GmZ1bW5wHYo/UgEf_9nZIKI/AAAAAAAATcQ/0PAZUfaosCA/s1600/IMG_0836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GmZ1bW5wHYo/UgEf_9nZIKI/AAAAAAAATcQ/0PAZUfaosCA/s640/IMG_0836.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Signing the register.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-93Rrx5ztRvc/UgEgEaCvJ1I/AAAAAAAATcY/6Vf_xZ2FECk/s1600/IMG_0839.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-93Rrx5ztRvc/UgEgEaCvJ1I/AAAAAAAATcY/6Vf_xZ2FECk/s640/IMG_0839.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That glacier is gnarly!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-31whEW1b42c/UgEgNOWkc9I/AAAAAAAATco/ueTNamHtXe4/s1600/IMG_0842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-31whEW1b42c/UgEgNOWkc9I/AAAAAAAATco/ueTNamHtXe4/s640/IMG_0842.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking out on the Railroad Grade.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ei9haOMBYLg/UgEgSVu-tNI/AAAAAAAATcw/pcXQZqz23FY/s1600/IMG_0843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ei9haOMBYLg/UgEgSVu-tNI/AAAAAAAATcw/pcXQZqz23FY/s640/IMG_0843.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Big B.</td></tr>
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Trips like this are typically custom bookings. The weather (and the route) are going to be great well into September - so grab a few of your friends and <a href="mailto:chris@chrissimmonsguiding.com">email me</a> or <a href="mailto:info@proguiding.com">contact Pro Guiding Service</a> to book a Mt Baker trip for yourselves!Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-73489820693362174582013-07-30T13:36:00.000-07:002013-08-19T13:43:26.107-07:00Rock Climbing!Spent a great weekend with Alex and Josh, introducing them to the finer points of climbing outside. They had signed up for an Intro to Rock Climbing from <a href="http://www.proguiding.com/">Pro Guiding Service</a>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VwiVDXYqfAY/UgEd2qV0IvI/AAAAAAAATas/7-pFQva2Jko/s1600/IMG_0787.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="628" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VwiVDXYqfAY/UgEd2qV0IvI/AAAAAAAATas/7-pFQva2Jko/s640/IMG_0787.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the first pitch of <u>4th Avenue</u> (2 pitches, 5.6) at the Easy Street Wall, Exit 38.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iBc3ZVaQblQ/UgEd7pxyN9I/AAAAAAAATa0/sEotybkzNaM/s1600/IMG_0790.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iBc3ZVaQblQ/UgEd7pxyN9I/AAAAAAAATa0/sEotybkzNaM/s640/IMG_0790.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Learning about technique on <u>Corner Flash</u> (5.7), at the Inner Wall, Index</td></tr>
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Over the course of three days, we practiced setting up top-ropes, cleaning anchors safely, and technique. Lots and lots of technique. We climbed 4th Avenue, a 2-pitch route (sharing a second pitch with Easy Street) that is a great introduction to multi-pitch climbing, and then followed that up by climbing the Great Northern Slab, a 3-pitch that is arguably the most fun climb of its grade on this side of the Cascades.<br />
<br />
All of our scheduled Intro to Rock Climbing trips are done for the summer, but the weather is still splitter and custom dates are easily arranged. Grab a friend who's interested too, then <a href="mailto:chris@chrissimmonsguiding.com">email me</a> or <a href="mailto:info@proguiding.com">contact Pro Guiding</a> to book a weekend for yourselves!Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-6110171466126844822013-07-21T22:34:00.002-07:002013-07-21T22:34:50.772-07:00Smash & Grab #10<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5DN-XI1aZ5a4AzLdJKQpR0xZ4HNqX_hWrzRafhegutQu4PJCUyU5fcwrKy4KAhRDjTwINzaSYc6yjsfUSSv9aK0OmEMjqwy3tl_ndhIw99L7JfGwNqN82tJaPjDTo82WeZiZpPC0po7RA/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-07-21+at+9.57.53+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5DN-XI1aZ5a4AzLdJKQpR0xZ4HNqX_hWrzRafhegutQu4PJCUyU5fcwrKy4KAhRDjTwINzaSYc6yjsfUSSv9aK0OmEMjqwy3tl_ndhIw99L7JfGwNqN82tJaPjDTo82WeZiZpPC0po7RA/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-07-21+at+9.57.53+PM.png" /></a><b>Weather report:</b> Its clear and sunny for the foreseeable future - as far out as anyone dares. Leavenworth and Mazama is forecasted to reach the 90's (ouch!), but the passes are 20-degrees cooler (low 70's), and the high mountains even cooler.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-799zm56kbAg/UFIlwv3eJ2I/AAAAAAAARaY/-gZDiyAVX4s/s1600/IMG_1537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-799zm56kbAg/UFIlwv3eJ2I/AAAAAAAARaY/-gZDiyAVX4s/s320/IMG_1537.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>So what's good:</b> Why drive farther than you have to? First, tick off the Snoqualmie Pass alpine classics like the West Ridge of Chair Peak (5.7, 8 pitches), the East Face of the Tooth (5.8, 5 pitches) or the Improbable Traverse on Guye (5.8, 7 pitches). If you've already been there, consider a road trip to Washington Pass. Spontaneity Arete (5.7, 8 pitches), the South Buttress of Cutthroat Peak (5.8, 12 pitches), and the Southwest Rib of South Early Winter Spire (5.8, 10 pitches).<br />
<br />
Here in the Pacific Northwest, often times knowing what the weather is forecasted to be determines where the best climbing or skiing is. <b>Smash & Grab</b> is an almost-weekly heads up, hopefully inspiring a last-minute rally to get out and do something. Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-82494423974408942822013-07-07T10:17:00.000-07:002013-07-07T10:17:00.060-07:00Back on the Wagon - A Return to Rock ClimbingA long-time guest - Carlton - came down with a number of ailments last year that put an indefinite stop to his climbing. I worried for him - he's one of my longest returning guests and we've climbed together in the Sierra Nevada, road-tripped to Smith Rock, and spend countless weekends and evenings cragging around Seattle. All that time together meant that we've talked as much about our families, our jobs, our communities and our politics as we have talked about climbing. I like to think he's become a friend.<div>
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<div>
So for this past year I would pepper Carlton with texts and emails. Are you ok? And he would reassure me that everything was looking up but he still wasn't cleared to climb.</div>
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<div>
I was so stoked when, after reading one of my recent Smash & Grab newsletters, Carlton asked me if we could go out for an easy day.</div>
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We've been to Exit 38 and most recently, spent Saturday at Index, where <a href="http://www.proguiding.com/">Pro Guiding Service</a> picked up a permit last fall. I showed Carlton what might be the best multi-pitch 5.6 on the west side, the Great Northern Slab.</div>
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<div>
Welcome back, C. You've been missed:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bjCTglUW18M/Udmc2E8L0pI/AAAAAAAATWo/8mZFGWFA9KE/s1600/IMG_0633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bjCTglUW18M/Udmc2E8L0pI/AAAAAAAATWo/8mZFGWFA9KE/s640/IMG_0633.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If only pitch 2 of the Great Northern Slab went on and on and on...</td></tr>
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Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-47630915181183933952013-07-04T09:50:00.003-07:002013-07-04T09:50:55.986-07:00Rock Climbing at the Exit!Jim, Amelia, Giaco and Mal came rock climbing with me for three days this week for an <u>Intro to Rock Climbing</u> with <a href="http://www.proguiding.com/"><b>Pro Guiding Service</b></a>. These guys have some experience already, so our itinerary was more "Intermediate" then "Intro", and tailored more to what they wanted to be able to do afterwards: lead sport climbs and set up top ropes.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R9clHWXqvpc/UdWdB_1wnXI/AAAAAAAATVY/NRFwCjnx_48/s1600/IMG_0617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R9clHWXqvpc/UdWdB_1wnXI/AAAAAAAATVY/NRFwCjnx_48/s640/IMG_0617.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mal is stoked on his gear anchor.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4Ajf1yVUTQ/UdWeRhvKrMI/AAAAAAAATWA/26ETgt9lZiQ/s1600/IMG_0621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4Ajf1yVUTQ/UdWeRhvKrMI/AAAAAAAATWA/26ETgt9lZiQ/s640/IMG_0621.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mock leading teaches lead belaying and proper rope management.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HtyEJy8h-LY/UdWeLa-0Q0I/AAAAAAAATV4/l4ISBuI0ZM8/s1600/IMG_0618.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HtyEJy8h-LY/UdWeLa-0Q0I/AAAAAAAATV4/l4ISBuI0ZM8/s640/IMG_0618.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giaco demonstrates proper teenager nutrition: by eating a whole roasted chicken for lunch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaaJA7i5aqU/UdWeILY9ocI/AAAAAAAATVw/e8fFoAzS8jk/s1600/IMG_0626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaaJA7i5aqU/UdWeILY9ocI/AAAAAAAATVw/e8fFoAzS8jk/s640/IMG_0626.JPG" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Graduate exercise on the third day: setting up a top rope on this 5.8.</td></tr>
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<br />Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-54190738971004268552013-07-03T07:04:00.001-07:002013-07-03T07:04:37.589-07:00Chair Peak BasinThis was my lunch view while taking on a steep snow climb with Roger M. in Chair Peak Basin:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eymNa30QvPg/UdAyxlyOrTI/AAAAAAAATVE/gBn8YMz-XvE/s1600/IMG_0615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eymNa30QvPg/UdAyxlyOrTI/AAAAAAAATVE/gBn8YMz-XvE/s640/IMG_0615.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not so bad, eh?</td></tr>
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Condition Report - its 99% snow from snow lake divide, making for a fast approach over the talus fields. And the NE Buttress on Chair Peak (4th class or low 5th) is completely melted out, and I think a direct line up the buttress edge would make for a fun 5th-class outing. An awesome day out in <a href="http://www.proguiding.com/">Pro Guiding Service's</a> home terrain.Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-41970203458742380092013-06-15T11:56:00.001-07:002013-06-15T11:56:46.350-07:00Smash & Grab Special Edition!Issue 8.1 - <b><span style="color: red;">Special Edition!</span></b><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>CASCADE RIVER ROAD IS OPEN!!</b></span> The access road to Eldorado Peak, Boston Basin, and the Ptarmigan Traverse opened earlier this week. There is still a huge blanket of winter snow at the upper elevations, making travel above tree-line and on the glaciers really straight forward. The classic steep snow lines in Boston Basin will be gone in a month. Right now is the time to grab them!<br />
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For the climbers:<br />
Mt Buckner North Face, 40-45 degree snow. 3 days.<br />
Mt Torment Northwest Glacier, 40 degree snow. 3 days.<br />
Johannesberg Mountain, CJ Couloir and East Ridge, 3500' of 35-40 degree snow and 1500' of 4th class rock. This is an <u>advanced</u> climb! 3 days.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BRXQuPKo5LQ/T_M6br0faVI/AAAAAAAAQ18/r_9ka-MfX3k/s1600/7476812050_9f43c153f5_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="348" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BRXQuPKo5LQ/T_M6br0faVI/AAAAAAAAQ18/r_9ka-MfX3k/s640/7476812050_9f43c153f5_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Massive Johannesberg Mountain, June 2012. 30 minutes from the car, the CJ Couloir is the long left-leaning snow line to the deep notch in photo center. The East Ridge climbs up photo right to the summit. That is a long 4000' climb!</td></tr>
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For the skiers:<br />
Sahale Peak Express. 1 big day.<br />
Sahale Peak, Quien Sabe Glacier, Intermediate. 2 days.<br />
Sahale Peak, West Face, Advanced. 2 days.<br />
Ptarmigan Traverse. Demands a full skill set, and be prepared for the hike out at the end! 5-7 days, depending on variations.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fmT-PrU8n6w/UbyxWSk8KlI/AAAAAAAATUY/rP-r2hRxk5o/s1600/DSC01627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fmT-PrU8n6w/UbyxWSk8KlI/AAAAAAAATUY/rP-r2hRxk5o/s640/DSC01627.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sahale Peak, June 2012. The Quien Sabe Glacier runs down the broad slopes on the photo left. The West Face is the headwall in the center. Look close, and you can see the ski tracks down the West Face.</td></tr>
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I provide all of these opportunities with <a href="http://www.proguiding.com/">Pro Guiding Service</a>.<br />
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Hope to see you in the mountains soon! - Chris<br />
Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-50139304190387988242013-06-10T14:41:00.001-07:002013-06-10T14:41:39.165-07:00June's Smash & Grab<i>Below is an excerpt from my latest newsletter - <u>Smash & Grab</u>, which comes out monthly (more or less). If you're interested in joining the cool kids' club, follow this <a href="http://eepurl.com/nUAWv">LINK</a>. Come on, everyone else is doing it! I do know that there are some glaring contradictions between the newsletter and the website, but nothing that keeps us getting outside, so let's ignore those inconsistencies and get going, hmmm?</i><br />
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<b>| sma-sh; and; grab | <i>phrase. 1. A distinct form of burglary. It involves smashing a barrier, grabbing valuables, and making a quick getaway.</i></b><br />
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<b><br /></b>
<b>Issue 8 - We're back!!</b><br />
On the first week of May, my plane landed in Sea-Tac on a late, late, drizzly night. I had an incredible trip to Europe - my first time on that side of the Pond. I skied the Haute Route and Mont Blanc, and road tripped to central Italy and back to Switzerland. I hope to go back next spring - want to join me?
Since then, I've skied Mt Daniel (near Cle Elum off of I-90) and Mt Shuksan. My Shuksan descent of the White Salmon was likely the last one of the year - it featured steep bushwacking for 1000' from Chair 8 to the valley floor - oy! I've also started rock climbing again and during the rainy days trail running.<br />
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One access note - Glacier Creek Road, which is used to access the northwest side of Mt Baker, is washed out at mile post 3. This adds a 7-mile hike or mountain bike ride up the road. If you want to climb the north ridge in solitude, this is the year to do it but be prepared to earn it!<br />
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<b>What's happening next.</b><br />
So much is starting to happen this month. Smash and Grab is going to turn into a monthly occurrence - I hope to send one out by the 10th of each month <i>(I realize that this conflicts with the notice at the top of website - expect the S&G to come out again on the 20th to a much, much bigger audience! -Chris)</i> It will also be posted on my website.
The website is also going through a serious redesign. I'm working with the folks at Squarespace to launch something a little glossier, little less blog-y. I'll still be posting stuff up, but it will be more thoughtful, informational, and less trip reports but still lots of photos.<br />
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I'm working on the logistics for trips to China, Chile, and Antarctica. I hope to have material on the website next month.<br />
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<b>What's good?</b><br />
Its June - the snow is still up high, but the rock has dried out down low. So this month is the best time for some of the big tours and high mountain descents for ski mountaineering, and taking advantage of the sunny days to warm up your rock climbing skills. Here's what I recommend.<br />
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<u>For Ski Mountaineering</u><br />
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<ul>
<li>Mt Adams, Southwest Chutes - 2 days or "The Express", an extremely long day. </li>
<li>Mt Baker, Easton Glacier - 2 days or "The Express", an extremely long day. </li>
<li>Mt Baker Circumnavigation - 5 days. Features an ascent of the mountain from the east side via the Boulder-Park Glacier, and a ski descent of the Park Glacier from the summit. Not for the weak of heart! </li>
<li>Ptarmigan Traverse - 5-7 days. A tour through the heart of the Cascades, from Cascade Pass to the Suiattle River. Several side day tours possible if we bring a little bit of extra food and fuel. </li>
</ul>
<u>For Rock Climbing</u><br />
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<ul>
<li>North Bend / Exits 32 & 38 - 1 day. The best thing about the Exits are their convenience to Seattle, and ease of access. Its a great way to spend a day or an afternoon warming up for the season. </li>
<li>Index - 1 day. A little bit of a farther drive, but trad climbing and a great intro to multi-pitch climbing. </li>
<li>Leavenworth / Icicle Creek - 2 days. The climbing at Icicle Creek is some of the best in the Pacific Northwest. Everything from single pitch to multi-pitch outings are possible. Really, to make the most of the time you should book two days, and either stay in Leavenworth or camp out on the Icicle. </li>
<li>What to work on? What do you want to learn? We can have instructional days based on anchor building and top-rope site management, full "what-if" rock rescue clinics, and pushing into lead climbing. </li>
</ul>
<u>For Alpine Climbing</u><br />
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<ul>
<li>Snoqualmie Pass - 1 day. The Tooth and Chair Peak are dry, and snow coverage allows for quick approaches. </li>
<li>Colchuck Peak - 1-2 days. </li>
<li>Washington Pass - Early Winter Spires, Le Petite Cheval, Cutthroat Peak. These are awesome day climbs, right now with a thick blanket of snow that makes the approaches really easy. Stay down in Mazama or Winthrop in the evenings!</li>
<li>Boston Basin and Eldorado Peak - there is still a lot of snow, adding two miles to the approach into Boston Basin. Doesn't mean it can't be done - but you're going to earn every bit of it!</li>
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<i>Interested? Questions? Email me at <a href="mailto:chris@chrissimmonsguiding.com">chris@chrissimmonsguiding.com</a>. Hope to see you again in the mountains!</i></div>
Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-13499175368315114042013-05-13T14:54:00.000-07:002013-06-10T17:25:54.112-07:00April in Review: The AlpsLast month, I took a trip of a lifetime - I travelled to the Alps for the first time. I spent 10 days in Chamonix figuring things out and skiing, then I guided three great guys on the Haute Route to Zermat, caught a train back to Chamonix and joined Martin to guide a group on a Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa ski descent trip. We summited Mont Blanc in incredibly windy weather, but were stormed of Monte Rosa. Into my fifth week, the weather was looking wet and rainy throughout the alps, so I decided to rent a car and drove to the Italian Riviera, then back up to Lago du Garda, before re-entering Switzerland and returning to Geneva.<br />
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It was an incredible month. Special thanks to Dylan Taylor and Adam George for helping me out in Chamonix; to Valais Suisse guides Bertrand, Julian, Stephan and Franco for taking me in on the Haute Route and showing me how we should take care of each other. And for <a href="http://www.proguiding.com/">Pro Guiding Service and Martin Volken</a> for being willing to send such a Yankee off into Europe and still work with me.<br />
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Here are the photos. To keep this from being too long an entry, I've broken it into four slideshow sections. Enjoy!<br />
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Chamonix</div>
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The Chamonix-Zermatt Haute Route</div>
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Ski Descents of Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa</div>
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My Italy Road Trip</div>
Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-64616280692425089932013-04-24T14:31:00.000-07:002013-05-27T14:33:00.761-07:00Stoneman Couloir, Mt Herman<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I was up at Mt Baker working at the Mt Baker Splitfest for Backcountry Access, looking up at the untouched Stoneman Couloir on Mt Baker. I even did a solo tour on Saturday to the access saddle, and was philosophically disappointed when I saw a pair of skiers ahead of me booting up to the summit. So I was really perplexed when I returned to the parking lot and <i>there still weren't tracks in the Stoneman.</i> Where had they gone? Who cared!<br />
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I called the two guys I thought were most likely to drop everything and join me - Day and Truc. Sure enough, Day arrived that evening in time for beers and Truc met us in Glacier in the morning.<br />
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Skiing the Stoneman Couloir was one the highlights of my winter.Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-1176956896947727762013-03-08T14:23:00.000-08:002013-05-27T14:24:20.276-07:00Tatoosh TouringSolo day in the Tatoosh, so no real pictures of the day. It was beautiful!<br />
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<br />Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-47847692853109594652013-03-04T14:20:00.000-08:002013-05-27T14:21:08.763-07:00Rock - Mastiff Traverse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
What do guides do on our days off? We go skiing! Special thanks to Erin Smart and Forest McBrian for joining me on this awesome day. If you're interested in beta for this tour, feel free to email me at <a href="mailto:chris@chrissimmonsguiding.com">chris@chrissimmonsguiding.com</a>.</div>
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Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-13909742872270921832013-02-24T08:16:00.000-08:002013-05-27T08:17:50.606-07:00Avalanche!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Level 1 avalanche classes are always interesting, even if the snow isn't. I don't just try to teach my students why this or that slope may slide, to think about <i>what</i> questions we should be asking on any given day for the given snow conditions. Its an important distinction to me - the former teaches a rote, "cookbook" methodology, but that latter emphasizes evaluation and judgement. In the end, I think it makes a better backcountry skier.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Today's forecast: snow. Yes, this was good skiing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TvJP_ZD0__w/UaNwrAvKGHI/AAAAAAAATR0/EqsmXtzz1xc/s1600/2013-02-23_09-52-08_88.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TvJP_ZD0__w/UaNwrAvKGHI/AAAAAAAATR0/EqsmXtzz1xc/s320/2013-02-23_09-52-08_88.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting ready for a companion rescue drill.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lot of relevant observations of the snowpack can be<br />made while moving, and can answer a number of questions<br />without stopping to dig a pit.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3kKYdSqc-6Y/UaNwtzH5ZgI/AAAAAAAATSE/bE7OF5XRubU/s1600/2013-02-24_12-03-55_301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3kKYdSqc-6Y/UaNwtzH5ZgI/AAAAAAAATSE/bE7OF5XRubU/s320/2013-02-24_12-03-55_301.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Digging a pit is a fun way to really get your head into<br />the science of snow and avalanches, but can be a real<br />time-suck on a ski day. Its important to be able to decide<br />1) if a pit needs to be dug at all, and<br />2) what we're looking for when we dig that pit - different<br />conditions dictate what the pit is for.</td></tr>
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Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4376499434994812608.post-80859190609125659662013-02-16T08:05:00.000-08:002013-05-27T08:06:21.281-07:00Vertfest!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Vertfest is something I look forward to every year - even though I still haven't raced in it! But I've gone over the course countless times, helping set it up for the races in 2011 and 2012. This year I helped manage the course on race day, then its wiped away in the afternoon.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn Patrol to do a final condition check of the course.<br />This year we had a lite rain that actually made the up-track<br />very sticky for skin contact, but poor edging. The result was<br />that proficient skinners (who use edges and heal lifters less)<br />had a great advantage over those with less experience and<br />technique.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Take-off! This is a 2000' climb to the top of the ski area,<br />then a ski down experts runs to the bottom - racers in the <br />expert division turned around and climb a second 1700' <br />up a more technical up-track. The winner completed both <br />laps in under 40 minutes each. Wicked impressive.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Afterwards, we had some fun - like blowing off a BCA<br />Float pack in this crowd...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everyone hung out for the beer and celebration <u>despite the rain</u>.<br />I was particularly impressed with the women's division - <br />two of the podium winners were new moms!</td></tr>
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Special thanks to the Summit at Snoqualmie, Outdoor Research, and to my own Pro Guiding Service was hosting, sponsoring, and supporting this event for another year!<br />
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<br />Chris Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10472487867818570684noreply@blogger.com