1st Annual Mt Si Run, 6 September

There are still spaces open for Pro Guiding Service's 1st Annual Mt Si Run. This deceiving trail travels only 4 miles but gains over 3000 feet of elevation, making the climb just shallow enough to run but steep enough that you will never forget it.  Come join us on Friday, 6 September.

More information here:  LINK

The Eldorado Icefield - An Intro to Mountaineering

Phil and Kellen signed up for Pro Guiding Service's Intro to Mountaineering in the North Cascades.  I know I'm biased, but I think this is the best-value trip of its kind offered.  This year, I started exploring a zone I'm calling the Eldorado Icefield, where the Eldorado, Inspiration, Klawatti, and McAllister Glaciers all meet to form one of the largest glacial areas not located on one of the Cascade volcanoes.  I think it offers it all - thought-provoking glacial travel and rock routes from 3rd to 5th Class, all wrapped up in a 5-day itinerary.  Plus, once you get past Eldorado Peak you can usually count the number of other climbers on one hand.

Hiking up to the Eldorado Glacier is steep, and typically take most of the day.

This time I opted for a steep-snow variation to the summit of Eldorado Peak.

The West Ridge of Eldorado Peak is a good introduction to alpinism, with low technical difficulties,
a lot of physical difficulties, and fantastic views - like this sunset from camp.

Traversing across the Inspiration Glacier.  That's Glacier Peak on the left horizon, and Eldorado Peak on the right.  We stopped just a few minutes later to spend 1/2 a day practicing crevasse rescue.

Downclimbing the Klawatti Notch on our way to Austera Peak.

On the summit of Austera, with the 3rd/4th class ridge we had to
traverse in view over his right shoulder.  That's also Forbidden Peak in
the background - check out the weather photos coming up.

A cool surprise was finding a 47 year-old register from a traverse team,
presumably on skis.  We found this on the gendarme next to the true summit.

There were for sheets of paper and a pencil.  But it was late in the day, so we
didn't have time to reverse the last 70' of climbing to place the register on the
summit.

Funny how it looks different traveling in the opposite direction, eh?  Climbing
back up the Klawatti Notch on our way to camp.

Sunset.  Our camp is just off-frame left and about 10 minutes awa

Our last day out - we tried to get on the North, and then the Southeast, Ridges of Klawatti Peak.  But big overhanging moats between the Klawatti Glacier and the rock had us stumped.  We settled for four pitches on a lower ridge tower and a fun glacial circumnavigation.

That evening we watched the weather roll in.

The dark wall was heading for us, and the thunderstorm hit right at sunset.

Crystal clear skies in the morning as we left.  That's Klawatti Peak in the background.

We descended into a marine layer just as we exited the glacier, and then 45 minutes from the car:

Trips like this are available almost anytime.  Want to spend less time on snow?  Then we'll head over to Boston Basin.  Want to increase the rock climbing difficulty - we'll climb Triad Peak, the Dorado Needle, Early Morning Spire, or the West Arete on Eldorado instead.  Our Cascade summers typically last until the end of September, so grab a few friends and email me or contact Pro Guiding Service to book a trip.

Mt Baker up the Easton Glacier

Spent an awesome three-day weekend with Ron and his daughters Maia, Milan, and Capri climbing Mt Baker.  

Hiking up through wildflowers and heather.

Looking into the crater on our summit day.

Signing the register.

That glacier is gnarly!

Hiking out on the Railroad Grade.

The Big B.

Trips like this are typically custom bookings.  The weather (and the route) are going to be great well into September - so grab a few of your friends and email me or contact Pro Guiding Service to book a Mt Baker trip for yourselves!

Rock Climbing!

Spent a great weekend with Alex and Josh, introducing them to the finer points of climbing outside.  They had signed up for an Intro to Rock Climbing from Pro Guiding Service.

On the first pitch of 4th Avenue (2 pitches, 5.6) at the Easy Street Wall, Exit 38.

Learning about technique on Corner Flash (5.7), at the Inner Wall, Index

Over the course of three days, we practiced setting up top-ropes, cleaning anchors safely, and technique.  Lots and lots of technique.  We climbed 4th Avenue, a 2-pitch route (sharing a second pitch with Easy Street) that is a great introduction to multi-pitch climbing, and then followed that up by climbing the Great Northern Slab, a 3-pitch that is arguably the most fun climb of its grade on this side of the Cascades.

All of our scheduled Intro to Rock Climbing trips are done for the summer, but the weather is still splitter and custom dates are easily arranged.  Grab a friend who's interested too, then email me or contact Pro Guiding to book a weekend for yourselves!

Back on the Wagon - A Return to Rock Climbing

A long-time guest - Carlton - came down with a number of ailments last year that put an indefinite stop to his climbing.  I worried for him - he's one of my longest returning guests and we've climbed together in the Sierra Nevada, road-tripped to Smith Rock, and spend countless weekends and evenings cragging around Seattle.  All that time together meant that we've talked as much about our families, our jobs, our communities and our politics as we have talked about climbing.  I like to think he's become a friend.

So for this past year I would pepper Carlton with texts and emails.  Are you ok?  And he would reassure me that everything was looking up but he still wasn't cleared to climb.

I was so stoked when, after reading one of my recent Smash & Grab newsletters, Carlton asked me if we could go out for an easy day.

We've been to Exit 38 and most recently, spent Saturday at Index, where Pro Guiding Service picked up a permit last fall.  I showed Carlton what might be the best multi-pitch 5.6 on the west side, the Great Northern Slab.

Welcome back, C.  You've been missed:

If only pitch 2 of the Great Northern Slab went on and on and on...

Rock Climbing at the Exit!

Jim, Amelia, Giaco and Mal came rock climbing with me for three days this week for an Intro to Rock Climbing with Pro Guiding Service.  These guys have some experience already, so our itinerary was more "Intermediate" then "Intro", and tailored more to what they wanted to be able to do afterwards:  lead sport climbs and set up top ropes.

Mal is stoked on his gear anchor.

Mock leading teaches lead belaying and proper rope management.

Giaco demonstrates proper teenager nutrition:  by eating a whole roasted chicken for lunch.

Graduate exercise on the third day:  setting up a top rope on this 5.8.

Chair Peak Basin

This was my lunch view while taking on a steep snow climb with Roger M. in Chair Peak Basin:

Not so bad, eh?

Condition Report - its 99% snow from snow lake divide, making for a fast approach over the talus fields.  And the NE Buttress on Chair Peak (4th class or low 5th) is completely melted out, and I think a direct line up the buttress edge would make for a fun 5th-class outing.  An awesome day out in Pro Guiding Service's home terrain.

Smash & Grab Special Edition!

Issue 8.1 - Special Edition!

CASCADE RIVER ROAD IS OPEN!!  The access road to Eldorado Peak, Boston Basin, and the Ptarmigan Traverse opened earlier this week.  There is still a huge blanket of winter snow at the upper elevations, making travel above tree-line and on the glaciers really straight forward.  The classic steep snow lines in Boston Basin will be gone in a month.  Right now is the time to grab them!

For the climbers:
Mt Buckner North Face, 40-45 degree snow.  3 days.
Mt Torment Northwest Glacier, 40 degree snow.  3 days.
Johannesberg Mountain, CJ Couloir and East Ridge, 3500' of 35-40 degree snow and 1500' of 4th class rock.  This is an advanced climb!  3 days.

The Massive Johannesberg Mountain, June 2012.  30 minutes from the car, the CJ Couloir is the long left-leaning snow line to the deep notch in photo center.  The East Ridge climbs up photo right to the summit.  That is a long 4000' climb!

For the skiers:
Sahale Peak Express.  1 big day.
Sahale Peak, Quien Sabe Glacier, Intermediate.  2 days.
Sahale Peak, West Face, Advanced.  2 days.
Ptarmigan Traverse.  Demands a full skill set, and be prepared for the hike out at the end!  5-7 days, depending on variations.

Sahale Peak, June 2012.  The Quien Sabe Glacier runs down the broad slopes on the photo left.  The West Face is the headwall in the center.  Look close, and you can see the ski tracks down the West Face.

I provide all of these opportunities with Pro Guiding Service.

Hope to see you in the mountains soon! - Chris

June's Smash & Grab

Below is an excerpt from my latest newsletter - Smash & Grab, which comes out monthly (more or less).  If you're interested in joining the cool kids' club, follow this LINK.  Come on, everyone else is doing it! I do know that there are some glaring contradictions between the newsletter and the website, but nothing that keeps us getting outside, so let's ignore those inconsistencies and get going, hmmm?

| sma-sh; and; grab | phrase. 1. A distinct form of burglary. It involves smashing a barrier, grabbing valuables, and making a quick getaway.

Issue 8 - We're back!!
On the first week of May, my plane landed in Sea-Tac on a late, late, drizzly night. I had an incredible trip to Europe - my first time on that side of the Pond. I skied the Haute Route and Mont Blanc, and road tripped to central Italy and back to Switzerland. I hope to go back next spring - want to join me? Since then, I've skied Mt Daniel (near Cle Elum off of I-90) and Mt Shuksan. My Shuksan descent of the White Salmon was likely the last one of the year - it featured steep bushwacking for 1000' from Chair 8 to the valley floor - oy! I've also started rock climbing again and during the rainy days trail running.

 One access note - Glacier Creek Road, which is used to access the northwest side of Mt Baker, is washed out at mile post 3. This adds a 7-mile hike or mountain bike ride up the road. If you want to climb the north ridge in solitude, this is the year to do it but be prepared to earn it!

What's happening next.
So much is starting to happen this month. Smash and Grab is going to turn into a monthly occurrence - I hope to send one out by the 10th of each month (I realize that this conflicts with the notice at the top of website - expect the S&G to come out again on the 20th to a much, much bigger audience! -Chris) It will also be posted on my website. The website is also going through a serious redesign. I'm working with the folks at Squarespace to launch something a little glossier, little less blog-y. I'll still be posting stuff up, but it will be more thoughtful, informational, and less trip reports but still lots of photos.

 I'm working on the logistics for trips to China, Chile, and Antarctica. I hope to have material on the website next month.

What's good?
Its June - the snow is still up high, but the rock has dried out down low. So this month is the best time for some of the big tours and high mountain descents for ski mountaineering, and taking advantage of the sunny days to warm up your rock climbing skills. Here's what I recommend.

For Ski Mountaineering

• Mt Adams, Southwest Chutes - 2 days or "The Express", an extremely long day. 
• Mt Baker, Easton Glacier - 2 days or "The Express", an extremely long day. 
• Mt Baker Circumnavigation - 5 days. Features an ascent of the mountain from the east side via the Boulder-Park Glacier, and a ski descent of the Park Glacier from the summit. Not for the weak of heart! 
• Ptarmigan Traverse - 5-7 days. A tour through the heart of the Cascades, from Cascade Pass to the Suiattle River. Several side day tours possible if we bring a little bit of extra food and fuel. 

For Rock Climbing

• North Bend / Exits 32 & 38 - 1 day. The best thing about the Exits are their convenience to Seattle, and ease of access. Its a great way to spend a day or an afternoon warming up for the season. 
• Index - 1 day. A little bit of a farther drive, but trad climbing and a great intro to multi-pitch climbing. 
• Leavenworth / Icicle Creek - 2 days. The climbing at Icicle Creek is some of the best in the Pacific Northwest. Everything from single pitch to multi-pitch outings are possible. Really, to make the most of the time you should book two days, and either stay in Leavenworth or camp out on the Icicle. 
• What to work on? What do you want to learn? We can have instructional days based on anchor building and top-rope site management, full "what-if" rock rescue clinics, and pushing into lead climbing. 

For Alpine Climbing

• Snoqualmie Pass - 1 day. The Tooth and Chair Peak are dry, and snow coverage allows for quick approaches. 
• Colchuck Peak - 1-2 days. 
• Washington Pass - Early Winter Spires, Le Petite Cheval, Cutthroat Peak. These are awesome day climbs, right now with a thick blanket of snow that makes the approaches really easy. Stay down in Mazama or Winthrop in the evenings!
• Boston Basin and Eldorado Peak - there is still a lot of snow, adding two miles to the approach into Boston Basin. Doesn't mean it can't be done - but you're going to earn every bit of it!

Interested?  Questions?  Email me at chris@chrissimmonsguiding.com.  Hope to see you again in the mountains!

April in Review: The Alps

Last month, I took a trip of a lifetime - I travelled to the Alps for the first time. I spent 10 days in Chamonix figuring things out and skiing, then I guided three great guys on the Haute Route to Zermat, caught a train back to Chamonix and joined Martin to guide a group on a Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa ski descent trip.  We summited Mont Blanc in incredibly windy weather, but were stormed of Monte Rosa.  Into my fifth week, the weather was looking wet and rainy throughout the alps, so I decided to rent a car and drove to the Italian Riviera, then back up to Lago du Garda, before re-entering Switzerland and returning to Geneva.

It was an incredible month.  Special thanks to Dylan Taylor and Adam George for helping me out in Chamonix; to Valais Suisse guides Bertrand, Julian, Stephan and Franco for taking me in on the Haute Route and showing me how we should take care of each other.  And for Pro Guiding Service and Martin Volken for being willing to send such a Yankee off into Europe and still work with me.

Here are the photos.  To keep this from being too long an entry, I've broken it into four slideshow sections.  Enjoy!

Chamonix

The Chamonix-Zermatt Haute Route

Ski Descents of Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa

My Italy Road Trip

Avalanche!!

Level 1 avalanche classes are always interesting, even if the snow isn't.  I don't just try to teach my students why this or that slope may slide, to think about what questions we should be asking on any given day for the given snow conditions.  Its an important distinction to me - the former teaches a rote, "cookbook" methodology, but that latter emphasizes evaluation and judgement. In the end, I think it makes a better backcountry skier.

Today's forecast:  snow.  Yes, this was good skiing.

Getting ready for a companion rescue drill.

A lot of relevant observations of the snowpack can be
made while moving, and can answer a number of questions
without stopping to dig a pit.

Digging a pit is a fun way to really get your head into
the science of snow and avalanches, but can be a real
time-suck on a ski day.  Its important to be able to decide
1) if a pit needs to be dug at all, and
2) what we're looking for when we dig that pit - different
conditions dictate what the pit is for.

Vertfest!

Vertfest is something I look forward to every year - even though I still haven't raced in it!  But I've gone over the course countless times, helping set it up for the races in 2011 and 2012.  This year I helped manage the course on race day, then its wiped away in the afternoon.

Dawn Patrol to do a final condition check of the course.
This year we had a lite rain that actually made the up-track
very sticky for skin contact, but poor edging.  The result was
that proficient skinners (who use edges and heal lifters less)
had a great advantage over those with less experience and
technique.

Take-off!  This is a 2000' climb to the top of the ski area,
then a ski down experts runs to the bottom - racers in the
expert division turned around and climb a second 1700'
up a more technical up-track.  The winner completed both
laps in under 40 minutes each.  Wicked impressive.

Afterwards, we had some fun - like blowing off a BCA
Float pack in this crowd...

Everyone hung out for the beer and celebration despite the rain.
I was particularly impressed with the women's division -
two of the podium winners were new moms!

Special thanks to the Summit at Snoqualmie, Outdoor Research, and to my own Pro Guiding Service was hosting, sponsoring, and supporting this event for another year!

Pro Guiding Service's Advanced Navigation Clinic

The day started at 3pm inside North Bend's Pioneer Coffee.
Maps and compass and bearings and navigation and gps and tour plans.
Its a lot of material to cover in three hours!

But it all adds up to a tour plan.

And a night out navigating by that plan proves the point.
Practice, practice, practice!

Statistics:  Pro Guiding Service, Advanced Navigation Clinic.  2 February.

Snow Science

Winter's here!  Need proof?  My first work for winter was to teach an AIARE 1 course in avalanche science and safety over the first weekend of December.  The photos below are from Day 2.  This course had a unique format for Pro Guiding Service - two evening sessions to take care of classroom subjects, and then two field days.

Pro Guiding Service usually offers this class as three full days - with a classroom and field portion each day.  Its a better format, even if its a little inconvenient.  Historically, this first class of the season was taught in cooperation with a local REI - this year, that arrangement was ended but not before the class filled.  No worries - we found a great venue at the Sammamish Club and ran with it.  And the weather god was good to us and we had a great snowpack to work with.   Two field days to Alpental were wet but very applicable.

Interested in learning more about avalanche safety?  Check out PGS offerings here, and a couple additional private offerings from me here.

Dave Jordan and Erin Smart demonstrating a few simple
field tests in a pit near Alpental.  Photo | Sara Lingafelter

Solveig Waterfall and I doing the same with a second group nearby.

Statistics:  Pro Guiding Service, AIARE 1 Course.  Classroom sessions at the Sammamish Club, Issaquah; field sessions near Alpental Ski Area, Snoqualmie Pass.  3, 5, 8-9 December.

The Mazamas

Last Saturday I was invited to spend an afternoon and evening with the Mazamas, one of the oldest climbing clubs on the west coast, at their lodge near Mt Hood.  It was a cool experience to sit with 60 recreational instructors, talking about climbing techniques and group management skills.  I certainly hope to come back.