Blown Off of Rainier

Cliff notes version - more to come later with photos.  Tried to lead a group up the Kautz Glacier route this weekend, only to be shut down by 50mph+ winds at 8300'.  With no way to move up to high camp, we turned around and booted out under skies threatening to rain.  Of course, by the time I made it home yesterday afternoon it was clear.  My ego is a bit eased since clouds have moved back in today, and I'm OK with our decision since there was no way to move up to 10,000'+ yesterday, but still.  I feel a bit schooled.

The Kautz Team - Ian, myself, JR, Roger, Amir, and Ben.

The clouds lifted just enough to help us across the Nisqually Glacier.

Martin, Philipe, and Reid joined us on the Wilson Glacier.  Originally booked
for the Furher's Finger, they changed plans due to the warm temps - the freeze
line was at 12000'!

We set up camp tucked into against the rocks to provide some shelter from the light
SW wind.  Around 11pm the wind witched and came out of the east.

It cleared in the evening, giving us hope for a nice day - but at 11pm the wind
switched and picked up into the 30's - then the 40's.  In the morning...

With the wind blowing so strong - and a cloud cap indicating that it was even stronger above us - there was no way we could move to high camp.  So no summit chance.  We decided to turn around and head home.

Statistics:  Pro Guiding Service.  Kautz Glacier, (5000' ca, glacier, snow, ice to 45 degrees), Mt Rainier (14,411').  15-16 July with Ben Haskel, Martin Volken, and Amir, JR, Roger, Ian, Philipe and Reid.

Photos and video:  Courtesy of JR J. and used with permission.