20120606

First Impressions from Mt Logan

I think the photo album may describe my Mt Logan trip best by how small it is.  We were on the mountain for almost three weeks, and I brought home 68 photos.  That's it.

That's because Mt Logan was one of the hardest projects I've had in a long time.  Unlike Denali, there's no goat-path to follow, no snow walls built by previous parties to move into when you arrive at a camp.  We had big packs, heavy sleds, and needed to build snow walls each time we bumped camp upward.  It was a lot of work.

We had four truly sunny and calm days, although the summit only experienced those conditions twice while we were there.  We gained the plateau col at 5540m (almost 19000') to a high camp at 5230 meters, where we were only 7km and 700m elevation away from the summit.  But the weather window wasn't big enough for us to go for it, and we retreated.  That retreat was epic - whiteout skiing and navigation through known crevasse hazards and seracs, 50kph winds, and -40C temps until we finally got below the Kings Col.  We may not have reached the summit, but we weren't routed off the mountain either - we made it down in good style and with strength at the bottom.

I'm waiting for photos from the rest of my team, but until then, here's a slide show from my meager album: