I think I break up the normal Pitch 2 into two pitches to facilitate belayer communication, so by my system a team can:
- climb 5 pitches and do three rappels with two ropes from the top of Pitch 5, 4, and the anchor of Lori's Lieback;
- or you can climb one more pitch and then scramble along sandy ledges first right, and then left through a notch to a single 30 meter rappel;
- or stop on that left ledge before the notch and climb anyone of a number of bushy crack systems for two more pitches to a true summit.
Damien and Dustin are really interested in getting into trad and multi-pitch climbing on their own, and are strong sport and gym climbers, so we spent a LOT of time talking about anchors, protection, gear, and on and on. We opted for climbing the first 6 pitches and using the single rappel to get down into the gully, finishing the day before 5:00pm.
Dustin looks up at me on the top of pitch 5 while Damien reaches Andy at the top of pitch 4. Pitch 4 features the A0 bolt ladder and run-out 5.8 slab climbing, while pitch 5 has an awesome finger crack leading to a great face/stem crux!